20.12.09

Kyoto iii


Trip to Nishiki Food Market in downtown Kyoto. So fun! Lots of strange yummies everywhere. Roasted chestnuts (got a bag for munching: warm and buttery), seaweeds, fish, unidentifiable dried berries, and Kyoto specialties of sweets, sweets, sweets, and an amazing array of alien pickled veggies.


Scored some beautiful Touan pottery for gifts. And more amazing pottery by an artisan who was throwing in his shop - his designs are based on an an 12-13 century scroll (The Chōjū- jinbutsu-giga), from to the Kōzan-ji temple in northwest of Kyoto: Wind-in-the-Willows-esque adventures of a rabbit, monkey, cat/tiger, and frog. These characters formed the basis for modern day Manga. Sooooooooo cool!


Also bought the best Gyokuro tea I could find.


Ventured to Tenryu-ji Temple in the Sagano area … lovely, singing, bamboo forest, tons of shops and street treats. Had green tea goo wrapped in a crepe. Nothing is too sweet here...


When we were leaving the temple, an old man who worked there (and was leaving for the evening) was walking in front of us. He turned around and handed us a lovely, wrapped, watercolor of a Tiger with a hand written page, in Japanese, about the auspicious, coming Year of the Tiger! Everyone here is so kind and generous.


Stopped by a shop where a woman was grinding macha tea!


I think our culture would advance by leaps and bounds if we instituted a simple bow for gratitude, salutations, and parting. Wow.


Train ride back to Kyoto city center was JAMMED!

19.12.09

Kyoto ii


Impossibly thick macha tea with sweets at little yummy shops everywhere - especially liked the rice balls with gooey-ies and powder-ies, cinnamon-ie and nutty...

Gion District rickshaw guys and Maiko/Geiko/Geisha at the temples, in the streets, and with photographers…

Bought some beautiful, old water color repros and one crow block print...

Stumbled upon an AMAZING Shinto wedding in progress at Kodai-ji Temple...

Beautiful, very foreign tasting (!) trad Kyoto lunch box...

Homemade tofu (yuba) everything…

Walk, walk, walk... Feet hurt, back hurts...

Why, yes, yes, you do eat the heads of the shrimp tempura...

Giant Buddha at the tomb of the unknown soldier...

Temples, temples, everywhere…

Bamboo...

Evening...Teppanyaki …. mmmmm …. Kobe beef…..

Walk through the giltzy lights and gazillon clubs and restaurants of modern Gion…

Cold!

18.12.09

Kyoto i

Our first two days in Kyoto


Temple, temple, temple, temple, temple, temple, temple


Gardens, gardens, gardens, gardens, gardens, gardens, gardens


Rock & sand gardens….


Monks chanting


Plum wine. Sake. Sashimi. Tempura. Soba. Udon


Crows crows crows


Temple kitties


Last bits of autumn red red red orange orange orange yellow


Cold Sunny Breezy


Tofuku-ji-Temple - OMG


Shiatsu massage


Bliss

17.12.09

Two Days in Tokyo

Mt. Fuji from the train to Kyoto


On the super high speed Shinkansen train, Nozomi, to Kyoto. It leaves every ten minutes! Where are our US bullet trains leaving every 10 minutes?


To pass Mt. Fuji soon.


Spent 2 days in Tokyo staying near The Imperial Palace. Tokyo feels a bit like NYC in another dimension: beautiful, big, clean, efficient, world-class everything - except everyone is Asian and you feel illiterate because reading is a non-option. Of course, we weren’t exactly exploring the city’s underbelly. And no jeans. I think I saw 1 person in jeans in 2 days. And the color is black - very serious stylishly dress. Denim is not the new black here. And neither is brown. Nothing is the new black, because black is not out. And I could not resist snagging a new, down, hooded, long, puffy-coat (whatever they’re called). All the rage.


We took in Asakusa where Old Edo was and the Sensoji Temple. Its awesome market streets were full tiny restaurants, yummy, unidentifiable treat vendors (we had some semi-sweet green tea battered puffs), and stalls full of everything from the chopstick hawker to the Old Man Seaweed Specialist. In front of temple entrances were giant, intoxicating, incense offering braziers. I always feel at home in Buddhist cultures. The offerings of incense, cleansing smudging, taking of holy water, coin offerings tossed over clangy metal bars to awaken spirits - all are completely natural to me. Feels very grounded, connected…


We took a boat ride down the river to the feudal hunting grounds of the Shogun family, Hamarikyu Gardens - a large park full of ancient, expertly pruned conifers (some enormous with wooden supports for their branches), and unbelievably aged wisteria...Gianormous crows swooped, cawing their conversations...D said they were the spirits of the Shogun. I liked that. A lot. Autumn remnants of Japanese maples and other deciduous trees: impossibly fiery red, pumpkin orange, almost hot pink...


Dinner atop the hotel overlooking the lit city and its brightly colored electro signs. Freakishly fresh Asian-Euro fusion…. indescribable tuna tartar, scallop ceviche, mystery fish. Kooky, pimpadelic, lava lampish decor.


Then a walk through the sparkling, uber-shopping district, Ginza. Dizzying spaceship-like convention center; karaoke bars stories high; rows and rows of tiny bars and restaurants tip-top full of people and built-squeezed end-to-end-under the expressway overpass.


Even though I only know a couple of Japanese words and cannot possibly read the language, communication is a non-issue. Actually much easier even than in France where I know plenty French. A little scary navigating the ---


Just passed Mt Fuji, OMG. Amazing. Amazing. Beautiful. Beautiful. Breathtaking. Breathtaking.


--- Tokyo train station with few transliterated signs and 10min to board the train. Whoosh to Kyoto!


TMI alert.


I am a total germaphobe and LOVED the public restrooms where you squat! Very clean and I think we need to get these and do away with the yucky ones we have in the US replete with the recorded sound of running water in the curved door stalls...


And so far, narry a tourist in sight! Weather: sunny, chilly.

14.12.09

The Week of Living Dangerously

Sunset in the mountains, Batangas, Philippines

Taal Lake & Taal Volcano

Ok, ok, it isn't dangerous. But it is kinda like a movie.


December 7-14

Batangas City, Philippines


This has been a relatively long week away from home, and is the “work” part of our travel before the fun part starts: 11 days in Japan, fly tomorrow. I am crazy excited about that.


Since this is my second long haul trip, I am more used to how sick I get from jet lag (more than I’ll admit) and how long the gosh darn plane ride is (but thank you Singapore Air biz class). We flew Houston--->San Fran--->Hong Kong--->Manila. Then drive a couple hours south to Batangas City. It is a small city on the water with an industrial/shipping economic base (thus the trip here for D’s biz).


I was, not, at all, prepared for the pollution here. I’ve never experienced anything like it. Bangkok in July is pristine comparatively! Jeepney’s and sidecar moto-bike taxis clog the air with leaded particulate. And the traffic is unreal. The city has a Mad Max-Mos Eisley-Year of Living Dangerously feel. Dear Corrupt Philippine Government, Please take care of your wonderful people and beautiful islands. Thanks, Fussy American.


We ventured up the nearby low mountain area to see the Taal Volcano. It is a tiny volcano in large Lake Taal - a crater within a crater. Very cool. Very beautiful. The ride was lovely - cows and goats everywhere, farms, and FRESH MOUNTAIN AIR!